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Omega Speedmaster Ultimate Buying Guide

Paul Altieri

The Omega brand, a beacon of precision and elegance, has graced the wrists of many since its inception in 1848. Among its illustrious lineup, the Omega Speedmaster watch collection stands out not just as a timepiece, but as a symbol of human achievement. Often dubbed the “Moonwatch,” the Speedmaster’s legacy is intertwined with space exploration, having been on the wrists of astronauts during mankind’s most daring space missions.

Beyond its celestial connections, the Speedmaster represents Omega’s commitment to craftsmanship, innovation, and timeless design. Whether you’re a seasoned watch enthusiast or a newcomer to the world of horology, the Omega Speedmaster has a story that captivates and a design that endures. In this guide, we’ll delve deep into the intricacies of this iconic watch, helping you appreciate its history, features, and the nuances that make it a beloved classic. 

The Legacy of the Speedmaster 

The Omega Speedmaster’s legacy is as vast as the cosmos it’s associated with. Launched in 1957, it was initially designed as a sports and racing chronograph, aligning with the Omega brand’s racing heritage. However, its destiny took a turn towards the stars. In 1965, the Speedmaster was chosen by NASA as its official timepiece for manned space missions, a testament to its precision and durability. This accolade reached its zenith in 1969 when Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface with a Speedmaster strapped to his wrist, earning it the moniker Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

But the Speedmaster’s journey didn’t stop there. It played a pivotal role during the Apollo 13 mission in 1970. When an oxygen tank exploded, jeopardizing the mission and crew, the Speedmaster was used to time a critical engine burn, aiding the safe return of the astronauts. This act of heroism earned the Speedmaster the Snoopy Award, a special honor given by NASA astronauts. 

Today, the Speedmaster’s legacy continues, not just as a tool for astronauts, but as a symbol of human tenacity, innovation, and the timeless quest for exploration, both on Earth and beyond. 

Key Features to Know 

The Omega Speedmaster, celebrated both for its historical significance and its intricate design, boasts a myriad of distinctive features that set it apart. Central to its design is the black tachymetric bezel, a nod to its racing origins. Complementing this is its dial, typically rendered in shades of black or grey, adorned with three sub-dials dedicated to chronograph functions. To ensure legibility even in dim conditions, both the hands and hour markers are imbued with a luminescent coating. 

The soul of the Speedmaster lies in its movement. The iconic Moonwatch was driven by the manual-wind Calibre 321. As time progressed, the Omega brand has incorporated various movements into the Speedmaster lineage. Among these, the Calibre 861 and its successor, the 1861, stand out for their unmatched durability and precision. 

The choice of crystal is another defining feature. While the classic Moonwatch is protected by a Hesalite crystal, known for its shatterproof properties, contemporary iterations have embraced the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, though it’s more prone to shattering under intense impact. 

The case back of the Speedmaster tells tales of its own. While the classic design showcases the emblematic seahorse, other versions pay tribute to space missions with intricate engravings. 

Lastly, the Speedmaster’s journey through time has been marked by the release of various special and limited editions. These editions, commemorating milestones like anniversaries and space missions, often captivate with their unique dials, case materials, and designs. 

By delving into these features, one not only deepens their appreciation for the craftsmanship behind the Speedmaster but also becomes adept at discerning the nuances across its diverse models. 

Understanding the Different Speedmaster Models 

The Omega Speedmaster’s enduring appeal has given rise to a myriad of models over the years, each with its own story and unique features. Here’s a closer look at some of the most iconic: 

The Professional Moonwatch

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch collection is the classic Speedmaster that most people envision. With its manual-wind movement, Hesalite crystal, and black dial, it’s the closest to the original model worn on the Moon. Its design has remained largely unchanged, a testament to its timeless appeal. 

Speedmaster Reduced

Introduced in the late 1980s, the Omega Speedmaster Reduced watch is a more compact version of the classic, with a diameter of 39mm compared to the Professional’s 42mm. It also features an automatic movement, making it a popular choice for those seeking a more convenient daily wear. 

Speedmaster ’57

A tribute to the very first Speedmaster from 1957, this model captures the vintage charm of the original with its broad arrow hands and simpler dial layout. Modern iterations come equipped with Omega’s Co-Axial movement, blending vintage aesthetics with contemporary mechanics. 

Speedmaster Racing

Celebrating Omega’s motorsport heritage, the Racing editions feature a distinctive minute-track style and often come in vibrant dial colors. They’re a nod to the Speedmaster’s pre-space days when it was intended for the racetracks. 

Speedmaster CK2915

Omega’s inaugural Speedmaster, the CK2915, launched in 1957, set a new standard in watchmaking. It was part of a professional trio that included the Seamaster 300 (CK2913) and Railmaster (CK2914), all featuring curved lugs, black dials, and distinctive broad arrow hands.

Originally designed as a sports chronograph, the CK2915 drew inspiration from the dashboard clocks of Italian sports cars, emphasizing precision and style. While marketed alongside racing cars, its chronograph proved versatile, catering to various sports and timing needs beyond racing. This pioneering Speedmaster model boasted a 38.6mm diameter, 19mm lug spacing, and a 48mm lug-to-lug length, dimensions that remained consistent in the first three generations of Speedmasters.

Speedmaster CK2998

The Omega CK2998 series is renowned for its variety, with the style of hands, particularly the “lollipop” chronograph seconds hand, being a crucial distinguishing feature among collectors. The 105.002 model warrants attention as it shares the same specifications as the last CK2998 variant, differing only in its reference number due to Omega’s overhaul of its numbering system. Produced only in 1962 before being succeeded by the 105.003, the brief manufacturing period of the 105.002 elevates its status in the realm of collectibles, arguably making it more sought-after than some CK2998 models. This transition marks a significant moment in Omega’s history, highlighting the evolution of its iconic Speedmaster line.

Speedmaster 105.002

If you are a fan of the Moonwatch, you will likely be a fan of the Omega 105.002. This variation offers a black bezel, Alpha hands, and has a military look. The lug spacing on this model remains at 19mm and lug to lug length is 48mm.

Speedmaster 105.003

Similar to the last reference, the Omega 105.003 Speedmaster starts to closely resemble the Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch,” notably through its white baton hands. As the most accessible option among the pre-Professional models, the 105.003 still has seen an increase in value recently. Currently, acquiring a 105.003 in good condition requires a large investment. This model is affectionately dubbed “Ed White” in honor of the astronaut who wore this watch, famously using two of them, during his 1965 spacewalk.

Dark Side of the Moon

The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon is a remarkable timepiece, showcasing Omega’s innovative approach to watchmaking. This model pays homage to the Apollo 8 astronauts who were the first to witness the dark side of the moon. Crafted entirely from black ceramic, it represents a bold and stylish interpretation of the classic Speedmaster design. The watch is renowned for its durability and distinct aesthetic, featuring a high-contrast display with luminous indices for easy reading. Its cutting-edge mechanics and unique design make the “Dark Side of the Moon” a favorite among watch enthusiasts and collectors.

Speedmaster Mark Series

The Omega Speedmaster Mark Series, an evolution of the original Speedmaster, is a collection rich in diversity and history. Introduced in the late 1960s, the Mark Series expanded the Speedmaster’s reach beyond its space-oriented beginnings. Each Mark model, from the Mark II to the later versions, brought unique design changes and technical enhancements, catering to a broader audience. These watches are known for their robust and varied designs, ranging from the streamlined look of the Mark II to the more complex dials of the later versions. The Speedmaster Mark Series has become a symbol of Omega’s commitment to innovation, merging classic elements with modern advancements. The Speedmaster Mark series include:

  • Mark I
  • Mark II
  • Mark III
  • Mark IV
  • Mark V

FAP Models

The Omega Speedmaster FAP models, specially delivered to the Peruvian Air Force, represent a unique chapter in the brand’s history. These watches, particularly the CK2998, are highly valued, especially in near-mint condition. Collectors often find that the earliest iterations of these models command prices nearly triple their original value. When considering a purchase, it’s essential to weigh personal collecting priorities and the historical significance of the timepiece. The FAP Speedmasters are not just watches; they are artifacts of aeronautical history, blending functionality with a rich legacy.

For enthusiasts and collectors, the diverse range of Speedmaster models offers a rich tapestry of history, design, and innovation. Whether you’re drawn to the allure of space exploration or the thrill of motorsports, there’s a Speedmaster that resonates with every passion. 

Serial Numbers

The Omega Speedmaster’s serial numbers are crucial for determining the production year, as the –xx indicators alone are not definitive. One needs to check the serial number engraved on the movement to pinpoint the exact production period. For example, the 145.022-69 model was produced from 1969 until the third quarter of 1971. There are several variations of case backs for the 145.022, including those similar to the 145.012 and others with the engraving “First Watch Worn on the Moon.” Among these, the most sought-after are those with a horizontal inscription featuring “Apollo XI 1969.” The 145.022 reference is also used for a special gold edition with a burgundy bezel, created as a commemorative piece for U.S. Presidents, White House staff, and Apollo astronauts.

Materials and Craftsmanship 

The Omega Speedmaster’s reputation as a paragon of horological excellence is not solely due to its iconic design or storied history. It’s also a testament to the impeccable materials used in its construction and the meticulous craftsmanship that brings it to life. 

If you have noticed that the majority of Speedy collectors sport a stainless steel Omega Speedmaster there may be a good reason behind it. Stainless steel is the most commonly used material for an Omega Speedmaster. Prized for its durability and timeless appeal. It’s resistant to corrosion, making it an ideal choice for a watch that’s worn daily.

However, for those seeking a touch of opulence, certain Speedmaster models are crafted in gold, specifically 18k gold, which can be found in hues of yellow, rose, or Omega’s proprietary blend known as Sedna™.

Beyond these traditional materials, Omega has also ventured into the use of ceramic, especially in models like the “Dark Side of the Moon.” Ceramic offers a unique matte finish and is renowned for its scratch resistance. Titanium, known for its lightweight and hypoallergenic properties, is another material occasionally chosen for specific Speedmaster models, offering a distinct aesthetic and feel on the wrist. 

But a Speedmaster is not just about the materials; it’s the craftsmanship that truly sets it apart. The movements, whether manual or automatic, are a testament to Omega’s engineering prowess, designed for both accuracy and longevity. Each Speedmaster undergoes a careful assembly process, handled by skilled watchmakers who ensure every detail, from the alignment of the hands to the placement of the bezel, is executed flawlessly. Furthermore, Omega’s commitment to quality is evident in its rigorous testing processes. Many Speedmaster models undergo METAS certification, a stringent set of tests that assess accuracy, anti-magnetism, and power reserve.  Their attention to detail and precise craftsmanship make it a no-brainer for anyone looking to purchase a luxury watch that holds its value.

In essence, the Omega Speedmaster is a harmonious blend of premium materials and dedicated craftsmanship, ensuring that every piece is not just a functional timepiece but a work of art that narrates a story of innovation and human achievement. 

How to Choose the Right Speedmaster for You 

The allure of the Omega Speedmaster lies not just in its storied history, but also in its diverse range of models, each echoing a unique narrative. When embarking on the journey to select the perfect Speedmaster, several considerations come into play. 

Your personal style is the compass guiding your choice. The Speedmaster collection spans from the vintage charm of the ’57, reminiscent of its original design, to the avant-garde aesthetics of the “Dark Side of the Moon.” Reflect on what complements your daily attire and the statement you wish to make. 

The physical dimensions of the watch in relation to your wrist size play a pivotal role in your decision. The classic Moonwatch, with its 42mm diameter, offers a certain presence, but might sit differently on slender wrists compared to broader ones. Conversely, the Speedmaster Reduced, more compact at 39mm, might offer a subtler elegance for some. 

Intended use is another crucial factor. If you’re seeking a daily companion, robustness might be a priority, directing you towards models crafted in durable materials like titanium. However, if you’re after a timepiece for special occasions, the opulence of a gold variant might be more fitting. 

Budget, inevitably, shapes the contours of your choice. The vast spectrum of Speedmaster models means there’s likely a perfect match for every budget. While the classic stainless-steel versions are more accessible, the allure of special editions or gold models comes at a premium. 

Yet, beyond these tangible considerations, there’s an intangible, tactile experience that’s irreplaceable. It’s highly recommended to visit an Omega boutique or an authorized dealer to physically try on various models. The weight of the watch, its comfort on your wrist, and its real-world aesthetics can sometimes shift preferences in unexpected ways. 

For the discerning collector or enthusiast, future value and collectability might also weigh in. While the Speedmaster is renowned for retaining its value, certain limited editions or models with historical significance might appreciate over time, making them not just a timepiece, but a potential investment. 

In essence, selecting the right Speedmaster is a confluence of personal preferences, practical considerations, and sometimes, a simple gut feeling. It’s about finding a timepiece that doesn’t just tell time, but also aligns with your narrative, becoming an extension of your persona. 

Care and Maintenance 

The Omega Speedmaster, a testament to horological craftsmanship, is built to traverse generations. However, its enduring beauty and performance hinge on the care it’s accorded. Regular servicing is paramount; every 4-5 years, it’s wise to entrust your Speedmaster to an authorized Omega service center. This routine ensures the intricate movement remains precise and any potential wear is addressed. 

Cleaning your Speedmaster is a delicate affair. A soft cloth suffices for daily upkeep, wiping away fingerprints or dust. For a more thorough cleanse, lukewarm water with a touch of mild soap works wonders, but always ensure the crown is securely positioned to prevent water from sneaking in. Once cleaned, a gentle pat down with a soft cloth ensures it remains pristine. 

While the Speedmaster is a robust timepiece, it’s prudent to shield it from extreme temperatures or abrupt temperature shifts, as these can compromise its accuracy. And, even though modern iterations boast anti-magnetic features, keeping it distant from potent magnetic fields is still a good practice. 

Water resistance is a hallmark of many Speedmaster models, but always ensure the crown is tightly fastened before any aquatic adventures. And if it does take a dip in the ocean, a quick rinse in freshwater followed by thorough drying keeps it in optimal condition. 

Lastly, storage matters. When the Speedmaster isn’t gracing your wrist, nestle it in a cool, dry sanctuary. For those who rotate between watches, a watch winder can be invaluable, ensuring the Speedmaster’s movement stays active and well-lubricated. 

In sum, the Omega Speedmaster, with its rich legacy and precision, deserves reverence. With attentive care and maintenance, it promises to be a timeless companion, ticking gracefully through the ages. 

Conclusion 

The Omega Speedmaster is more than just a watch; it’s a symbol of human ingenuity, a testament to our timeless quest for precision, and a witness to some of history’s most monumental moments. From the racetracks to the vast expanse of space, its journey has been nothing short of extraordinary. As you delve into the world of Speedmaster, you’re not just exploring the intricacies of a timepiece but embracing a legacy that spans decades. Each model, with its unique story and craftsmanship, invites you to be a part of this grand narrative. Whether you’re drawn to its spacefaring adventures, its horological excellence, or its sheer beauty, the Speedmaster offers a blend of history and innovation that few timepieces can rival. As you wear it, you don’t just tell time; you carry a piece of history on your wrist, a constant reminder of mankind’s relentless pursuit of excellence. In the end, choosing a Speedmaster is about finding a companion that resonates with your story, aspirations, and dreams, ensuring that every second counts in the grand tapestry of time. 

Paul Altieri

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